When in Rome...
Learnings from my time in la bella città.
Here’s my part of the story…
If you've been around this newsletter for awhile, you know I jump at pretty much any chance I get to spend time in Italy. So when Laura Valenti (whom I finally met IRL in Rome back in January) sent a message suggesting we swap apartments in September, needless to say, I said, "Si"! Here’s my post about our swap.
Laura (The Lora Studio) and I created a plan and brought it to life so that we spent the first half of September, arriving just before Labor Day, in each other’s apartment and city — Laura in Brooklyn which became her base to explore all of New York City, and me in her Monteverde flat from which to explore all of Rome (and make a side trip to Palermo).
We created Google documents for each other that included all of the particulars about our spaces and neighborhoods and some gems to discover further afield. Yes, if you’ve seen The Holiday you get the picture (I have deep affection for the movie and watch it every Christmas).
Here are my takeaways from the experience and la bella Roma.
1. How to bring The Holiday to life.
To live in someone’s home and visit the places that are special to them is a vulnerable way to travel. You follow in their footsteps and try to see these places through their eyes. It’s not the same as the TikTok video or influencer post on Instagram… it’s more intimate. And that, for me, is a beautiful thing.
2. Summer in Italy is serious business.
Just not in the way those of us in North America think about business.
Italians take “ferie” — the summer holiday, in many cases the entire month of August — very seriously. Spots you want to visit, restaurants on your must-try list, or agencies with services you might need can be closed. Yes, even in the tourist high season.
This is a different way to look at abundance. Time off, usually with family and friends, is of more value than the money that can be made when the world descends on Italy.
My experience of this…
At Laura’s suggestion, on my first Saturday (the last weekend of August), I went to buy fresh fruit, vegetables, etc. and have lunch at the Mercato Testaccio — a famous covered market in central Rome — after visiting the Musei Capitolini (more on that below). When I arrived, I was greeted by at least half of the stalls being closed for “ferie” (though I did manage to eat a delicious lunch).
And the night before I had tried to have dinner at the local Hosteria da Settimio only to find the same sign on the shuttered restaurant.
This would never happen in the U.S. or Canada. Not in August.
3. Getting off a crowded bus in Rome is a contact sport.
This is not a joke. I took the bus from Monteverdi into central Rome on my last Saturday in the city. It was a busy day and I claimed a standing spot opposite the door early in the trip. The bus became more crowded at each stop. With my destination next up, I edged my way and was literally body checked as I tried to get out the door.
That said, riding the bus, and even waiting for it, in Rome, a city which I consider to be one stunning outdoor museum, is not too hard to take.
4. If something doesn’t make sense, there’s usually a good reason.
Truly. to self if something doesn’t make sense there’s usually a recent and there’s usually a solution we’re not seeing. For over two weeks, I used one of the keys to open the front gate outside of Laura’s apartment building. A little voice inside told me this seemed strange, but I just went with it never thinking to ask her if there was another way to open the gate from the inside.
This was fine until the day I left. I was up at 5:30 am and out the door at 6:12 am to catch the bus to the train station and on to the airport. Just as I closed the door to the apartment, with the keys inside of course, I realized my well-thought-out plan didn’t include opening the front gate. Yes, panic ensued.
I sent a WhatsApp message to Laura but of course she was offline as it was midnight in New York. Then I thought to call Laura’s sister, Manuela, who did not answer (at 6:15 am!) but did message me back. She claimed she was already awake, but I think she was being kind. After 5 minutes of back-and-forth, she told me there must be a button to open the gate next to the front door of the building… and indeed there was. Because that makes sens.
This was a huge lesson in slowing down. Thinking things through. And taking the time ask for help when, really, the thing just doesn’t make sense.
5. Italians take good design very seriously.
I visited the Musei Capitolini Centrale Montemartini (a distinctive, off-the-beaten-path spot, another of Laura’s suggestions). It’s a sculpture museum housed in a former power plant.
The history of the museum began in 1997 with the transfer of a selection of sculptures and archaeological artifacts from the Capitoline Museums, which were undergoing major renovations at the time, to the power plant, which had not been in operation for several years.
There was a description of the engine room design from 1912-1933 and of the renovation in 1933 (new technology had been discovered). The mosaic floor, the double staircase, the wall painted blue… all intentional design for an engine room. Amazing.
6. The Tiber is every bit as enchanting as the Seine.
No matter the season, the winding, tree-lined Tiber reminds me of walking along the Seine in Paris. There are bridges lined with sculptures, green wooden kiosks selling books and totes and all manner of memorabilia, paths down below that hug the water, and tour boats passing by, usually with music blaring. Seeing and spending time along the Tiber grounds me in the city.
7. The people.
Almost every Roman I encountered during my stay was friendly and incredibly helpful. Lifting my large suitcase onto the bus without me asking and simply moving on. Happily working with and encouraging my elementary Italian, verbs mangled when I was tired. The man I could see out the kitchen window washing windshields six mornings out of seven guiding me to cross a busy street to catch the bus I was about to miss. And Laura’s sister helping me get the front gate open at 6:15 am (see above).
Then there were the fellow tourists I met. One couple was escaping what was a wet summer in Germany. And a group of five middle-life women from Malta (friends since the 5th grade!) who were in Rome for a long weekend of shopping. And then the couple I saw walking after a dinner in Trastevere. Bellisima.
I’ve left off the food… but of course, the food, always. Amore.
And ICYMI.
On Saturday, I shared Laura’s post about her time in New York. Her insights were beautiful (the good, the bad, and the ugly about the city) and told in a way that only she could.
You can read it here:
“8 Things I Brought Back from New York That Cost Nothing”
Until next time,
Katherine
#ICYMI
Loved every single word of this, Katherine! You’re really encouraging people to embrace this new way of travelling (swapping) instead of relying only on hotels or B&Bs. I’m also so happy you got to visit some of my favourite places here in Rome. My home (wherever I am after this big move I’m in the middle of) will always be open for you! A presto!